Tarsus, a town in eastern Turkey with a 7,000-year history, is a unique melting pot where Christianity, Islam, and Judaism intersect, and it’s also home to some of the best hummus you’ll ever taste. Located about 180 miles from the Syrian border and 560 miles southeast of Istanbul, Tarsus has been a hub of trade, culture, and religion for centuries.
A Journey Through Time
Originally established near the Cydnus River, Tarsus became a significant trade center as early as 1600-1180 BCE under the Hittites. By 67 BCE, under Roman rule, it was the capital of Cilicia Pedias—a vast, fertile area in modern-day southeastern Turkey—and flourished as a center for education and philosophy.
Atalay Dik, a local mariner and passionate advocate for his hometown, often shares the rich history of Tarsus with visitors at his family’s Saint Paul Café and Restaurant. “Even today, students come here from universities in Alexandria and Athens to pursue their Master’s degrees,” he says.
Walking in the Footsteps of St. Paul
The charm of Tarsus lies in its seamless blend of the ancient and the modern. Here, you can explore centuries-old mosques and churches and witness firsthand how Christianity and Islam have coexisted and shaped the city’s cultural fabric.
St. Paul, born Saul around 4 BCE, is one of Tarsus’ most famous historical figures. He later became a leading figure in early Christianity, converting thousands to the faith. Pilgrims and history enthusiasts alike can visit St. Paul’s Church, also known as the St. Paul Memorial Museum. Built in 1850 by the Orthodox community, the church sits on the site of an older place of worship dating back to the 11th or 12th century. Though the Christian community in Tarsus dissolved after the 1923 Greece-Turkey population exchange, the church’s frescoes were beautifully restored in 2001, with Jesus and the four evangelists—Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John—taking center stage.
From the Lions’ Den to Tarsus
The biblical character Daniel, famous for surviving the lions' den, is also believed to have spent his final days in Tarsus. According to legend, Daniel traveled to Tarsus in his old age to pray for rain during a severe drought. After Tarsus was conquered in the 11th century, a body was discovered wrapped in cloth adorned with gold thread and wearing a ring depicting a child between two lions. This led locals to believe that Daniel was buried there.
Visitors can reach the alleged tomb of Daniel by passing through a 19th-century mosque, which sits atop the remains of a 16th-century Ottoman bath. To visit the tomb, which is still an active place of worship, you must adhere to Islamic customs, covering arms and legs, and women should wear headscarves.
A City of Mosques and Markets
Close to Daniel’s tomb stands the 16th-century Ulu Camii, Tarsus’ Grand Mosque, whose 33-foot minaret also functions as a clock tower. The mosque’s adjacent Kırkkaşık Bedesten, or “40 Spoons Bazaar,” is a covered market originally built as a soup kitchen in 1579. Today, it’s a bustling marketplace with stores selling traditional Turkish souvenirs, including the famous “Cleopatra’s Potion,” a supposed elixir of youth inspired by the legendary Egyptian queen who visited Tarsus in 41 BCE.
The Bilal Habeşi Mescidi, another historic site in Tarsus, is named after Bilal ibn Rabah, Islam’s first muezzin, who is believed to have recited the call to prayer in Tarsus. Although modest in appearance, this mosque holds significant historical importance as the site where Islamic tradition was first established in the city.
Hummus and History
Tarsus’ rich history is matched by its culinary delights, particularly its hummus. Local favorite Kervan Humus serves up warm, creamy hummus drizzled with sizzling oil, whole chickpeas, parsley, and red pepper flakes. For those with a hearty appetite, variations topped with spicy sausage, cured meat, or steak are available.
A stroll through the Kızılmurat neighborhood is the perfect way to walk off a meal. The streets are lined with Ottoman-era houses featuring traditional wooden beams and plaster walls. A must-visit is the House of St. Paul, believed to be the apostle’s birthplace, and the nearby St. Paul’s Well, whose waters are thought to have healing properties.
After exploring, relax with a glass of homemade lemonade at Saint Paul Café and Restaurant. The café, housed in a 180-year-old building, retains much of its original charm, with embroidered cushions and Turkish coffee cups adding to its unique atmosphere.
A City of Culture and Tolerance
Tarsus is a city where ancient history and modern life coexist harmoniously. It’s a place where Christianity and Islam, hummus and Ottoman architecture, all come together to create a rich cultural tapestry. As Atalay Dik says, “I always feel calmer when I return to Tarsus. I can breathe in culture and tolerance more deeply, living here amongst all the ancient culture and civilizations with antique ruins all around the city.”
